Stunning Island Garden You Never Knew Existed in Korea

Oedo Botania & Haegeumgang — A Cruise to Korea's Secret Island Garden

Oedo Botania — my wife and I went there ourselves, just the two of us.

When you're buried in work all the time, there are moments when you just genuinely need a break, you know? Same here. So we make it a point to travel regularly together, but the problem is we've already been to so many places. "Let's go somewhere new this time." And that's how we pulled out the Geoje Island card.

If you look at foreign travelers coming to Korea, the itineraries are always so predictable. Seoul means Myeongdong, Gyeongbokgung, Hongdae. Busan means Haeundae, Gamcheon Culture Village. Jeju means Seongsan Ilchulbong, Hyeopjae Beach. Recently, more people have caught on to Gyeongju and Jeonju Hanok Village too.

Don't get me wrong — they're all great places. They're popular for a reason.

But the thing is, Korea has so many incredible spots that most foreign visitors have never even heard of. Places that Koreans flock to, but that you'd rarely see on travel blogs or YouTube. Most travel content just ends up being the same destinations, the same routes, over and over again.

So today I want to introduce you to somewhere a little different. An island floating in the middle of the sea off the southern coast of Geoje Island — Oedo Botania. And Haegeumgang, often called "the Geumgangsan of the sea" (basically, ocean cliffs so beautiful they rival Korea's most legendary mountain). A place where you won't get crushed by tourist crowds, where you can actually feel the raw beauty of Korea's nature.

We drove ourselves and boarded a cruise boat from Wahyeon Port. We did the full course — Haegeumgang scenic cruise first, then landing on Oedo Botania. I've got the full breakdown for you: a comparison of all 5 departure ports, costs, the best seasons to visit, and on-the-ground tips you can only learn by actually going.

Let's go.

Everything You Need to Know Before Departing from Wahyeon Port

Today, we're setting sail from Wahyeon on Geoje Island. Wahyeon — remember that name. There are multiple ports where you can catch a cruise to Oedo Botania, and I picked Wahyeon. Actually, I came here on a travel agency package years ago and boarded from the same port. The memory was good, so I came back. You can see "oedorang.com" written on the side of the boat, right? That's the one taking us out to an island in the middle of the ocean.

By the way, we arrived about an hour before departure and the parking lot was practically empty. Wahyeon Beach is right in front of the port, so it was perfect for killing time watching the waves while we waited.

There are a total of 5 ports on Geoje Island where you can catch a cruise to Oedo and Haegeumgang. Each port has slightly different departure times, prices, and routes, so just pick the one that fits your situation best.

Here's what the inside of the Wahyeon cruise boat looks like. Blue seats line both sides, and it's surprisingly spacious and clean. The feel is similar to airplane seating, so you can sit comfortably for the ride. There are big windows on both sides so you can see the ocean even while seated, and there's a monitor on the ceiling that plays route info and sightseeing videos. It takes about 20–30 minutes to reach Oedo, but honestly, you'll be too busy watching the sea to notice.

Haegeumgang Scenic Cruise — The Sea Cliffs They Call "Ocean Geumgangsan"

Once the boat departs, you can head up to the open deck like this. The cruise from Wahyeon first loops around Haegeumgang for a scenic boat tour, then heads to Oedo. Standing in the middle of the ocean with the wind hitting your face feels pretty amazing. Mountains and islands layer up in the distance, and seagulls trail the boat. Some passengers had bought shrimp crackers to toss to the seagulls — they sell bags on board for about $1.50.

The sea was pretty calm that day. Apparently, on rougher days, it can be hard to even stand on the deck. I've seen reviews saying you'd have to just stay inside and watch through the windows on days like that.

As the boat approaches Haegeumgang, these massive cliffs suddenly appear right in front of you. They look impressive in photos, but the real-life scale is on a completely different level. Rocks carved by tens of thousands of years of waves and wind tower dozens of meters above the sea, with pine trees clinging to the crevices. The cruise boat pulls right up close, so you get to see these overwhelming Haegeumgang sea cliffs in incredible detail.

I'll be honest — this was my third time seeing Haegeumgang, so it didn't make me go "WOW" this time. But for first-timers, it'll be different. When everyone on the boat simultaneously raises their cameras at the same moment, that's when it hits you: oh, so this is the "Geumgangsan of the sea." The captain does a narrated broadcast explaining the name and legend behind each rock formation, and his distinctive delivery really sticks with you.

This is the famous Lion Rock at Haegeumgang. See that separate rock standing on the left? It looks exactly like a lion with its mouth wide open, gazing out at the sea. Can you see it? Once someone points it out, you can't unsee it.

Apparently, cruise boats used to go right inside the Cross Cave back in the day, but they've stopped doing that now due to safety concerns. It looked like smaller boats still go in, but that seems to be a separate tour package.

Landing on Oedo Botania — The Entire Island Was a Garden

After the Haegeumgang scenic cruise wraps up, you finally arrive at Oedo. Step off the boat and you're greeted by a sign that reads "Welcome to OEDO BOTANIA."

Walking up from the dock, you'll come across this white archway. This is where the real Oedo Botania exploration begins — and as you can see, it's uphill. Oedo isn't a big island, but the terrain itself is hilly, so expect quite a few inclines and stairs.

I was fine, but my wife was huffing and puffing on the way up.

Walk up just a little and this view opens up immediately. Turn around and you can see the boat you just arrived on, with the mountain ridges of Geoje Island's main island stretching long across the sea behind it. Below the white railing, you can spot the breakwater and a small lighthouse. And this is still just the entrance — the views are already this good.

Walking up, this suddenly appeared out of nowhere. A massive dinosaur sculpture carved from wood — and the size of this thing is no joke. It looked several times taller than me. Everyone stops here. I stood there for a good while too, shifting angles and snapping photos from every direction. It was an overcast day, but honestly the green looked even richer because of it.

Palm trees lining the hillside path one after another — I honestly thought I was somewhere in Southeast Asia for a second. Because Oedo sits in the middle of the ocean, the climate is apparently warmer than the mainland. That's why palm trees and subtropical plants thrive so well here. I'd never seen scenery like this in Korea outside of Jeju Island, but Oedo felt different from Jeju too. It's a tiny island just packed with plants, so the density is on another level. It felt like walking through a jungle.

Daffodils were blooming all along the path. They're even prettier up close. I kept crouching down to get a better look as I walked. Oedo Botania is famous for having flowers in bloom year-round, and after actually being there, I can confirm that's no exaggeration. I went in spring and the daffodils were at their peak. In summer they have hydrangeas, in fall it's lantana and bush sage, and winter brings camellias.

This path was seriously amazing. Personally, this was my favorite stretch of the entire Oedo Botania visit. Lush green on both sides with you walking through the middle — it felt like a scene straight out of a movie. Yellow flowers lined up along the right, and when you looked up, palm trees canopied the sky.

But here's the problem. I wanted to take a photo with every single step, so I literally could not move forward. And it wasn't just me — everyone ahead was doing the exact same thing. Stop, snap, walk two steps, stop again. I went on a weekday during off-season so it was manageable, but on weekends or holidays, people flood in from all 5 ports and it gets seriously packed. Go on a weekday if you possibly can. I mean it.

The second I saw this tree, I said "We HAVE to take a photo here." A massive tree split right down the middle, with just enough space for one person to stand inside. If you stand in there, the photo comes out looking like the tree is hugging you. People were lining up to take their turn. Don't skip this one.

From the other side of that tree, it looks like this. Round flower buds reaching up in a row at the front, with red maple trees and palm trees standing side by side on either flank. Maple leaves and palm trees in the same frame? Seems weird, right? But at Oedo, it's totally natural. Temperate and subtropical plants coexisting in one space — that's the unique charm of this island.

This is the Cactus Garden. The vibe shifts completely here. One second you're in a green jungle, and the next you're in a sandy area lined with cacti — it suddenly feels like you teleported to somewhere in Mexico. The atmosphere keeps changing like this all over the island, so there's zero chance of getting bored.

Follow the stone path upward and you'll find perfectly rounded green trees, red maples, and white sculptures all blending together on either side. The clouds happened to be floating just right that day — it genuinely looked like a painting.

From Venus Garden to the Summit Observatory, and the Walk Down

There it is. Venus Garden. The absolute highlight of Oedo Botania.

White columns arranged in a semicircle, with sculptures standing between each one. A fountain sits to the left. Apparently it was modeled after the rear gardens of Buckingham Palace. They renovated it in 2020, and the maintenance was impeccable.

When I first saw it, it reminded me of a Greek temple, or maybe the garden of some Italian palazzo. But then you turn around and there's the southern Korean sea right behind you. It looks European, but the ocean is unmistakably Korean. That contrast is weirdly captivating.

This is Venus Garden seen from above. Yellow flowers form decorative patterns inside the garden beds, and a promenade stretches along the white railing. Looking at this, all I could think was: a private individual really made this? This spot was apparently the playground of an elementary school annex before they transformed it into this. The weight of 50 years of dedication felt like it was captured entirely in this single shot.

Venus Garden from the other side. Same spot, but it looks completely different depending on the angle. Here's a tip: walk both sides of Venus Garden. A lot of people only walk one path and move on, but the view from the opposite side is totally different, and you'd be missing out.

Look closely and you'll find these hidden details. Inside the yellow flower borders, pebble patterns are laid out — and every single one is different. Lower your eye level and walk slowly. If you just breeze through, you'll miss all of this. I noticed gardeners walking around constantly maintaining everything.

Past Venus Garden and further uphill, you reach a space like this. Three white sculptures holding hands, spinning in a circle, with yellow flowers, purple flowers, and green lawns cascading up in terraces behind them. Right around this point, the sky started clearing up. Oedo under overcast skies and Oedo under sunshine felt like two completely different places.

I spotted a white iron archway and wandered in to see what was there. It's a small herb garden kind of space, and barely anyone goes in. Most people just follow the main path. But step inside and it's quiet, with sunlight filtering through the greenery — really lovely. If you have time to spare, explore these side paths too.

This photo is my absolute favorite from everything I took on Oedo. Yellow flowers carpeting the ground beneath a red maple tree, with spiral-trimmed green trees rising in layers behind it. Red, yellow, green, purple — all in one frame. No editing at all. And honestly, it was about ten times more intense seeing it with my own eyes than through a camera lens.

I couldn't name a single one of these flowers, but yellow ones, purple ones, orange ones — all jumbled together, figuring out how to be gorgeous all on their own. Someone is maintaining all of this, every single day, at this scale. Genuinely impressive, if I'm being honest.

Climb higher and the entire island unfolds below you. Down there you can see the white columns of Venus Garden, then the sea beyond, and the mountain ridges of Geoje Island stretching across the horizon. Pink azaleas blooming in the foreground framed the view like a natural picture frame.

I stood here for a while. I'd come up to take photos, but I put the camera down and just looked. My wife was standing next to me, silent too. These are the moments from a trip that really stay with you, you know?

Made it to the summit observation deck. This is the highest point of Oedo Botania. There's a telescope up here, and you can lean against the railing to take in the sea. I was hot from the climb, but the wind was blowing pretty strong up here and it felt great. Islands dot the distance, and on a perfectly clear day, they say you can see Japan's Tsushima Island. I couldn't see that far on this day, but it was more than enough.

Azaleas were in full bloom near the observation deck. Light pink with little dark pink speckles — up close they're incredibly delicate. I normally never take flower photos, but I must have snapped about ten just here.

From the observation deck, look the other way and you see Oedo's eastern side. This part hasn't been turned into a garden — it's raw, untouched nature. Waves crash against the cliffs below, and small rocky islets jut out at the edge. Same island, but one side is a European-style botanical garden and the other is wild, rugged sea cliffs. That contrast is what makes Oedo feel even more special.

Time to head back down. From up here, you can take it all in at once. Venus Garden's white columns on the left, perfectly rounded trees in the center, terraced gardens on the right, and the sea and Geoje Island mountains stretching out behind it all. The fact that all of this fits on one small island still blows my mind even now. The climb up was tough, but the moment I saw this view, everything was worth it.

On the way down, an orange tile-roofed building comes into view. Peeking through green vines like this, doesn't it look like a Mediterranean coastal village? The views going down are different from going up, too. On the way up, you're focused on the gardens, but on the way down, the sea and the whole island open up before your eyes.

Down at the dock, boats were buzzing with activity. One was dropping off passengers, another was waiting at sea. Each one came from a different port. This is where that name tag I mentioned earlier becomes crucial. You need to find YOUR specific boat among all of those and get on it.

"Good bye!" The sign that said "Welcome" when you arrived flips to this on your way out. Seeing it gave me an unexpected pang of sadness.

I had no idea 2 hours would fly by that fast. Honestly, I'd initially assumed it was a small island and we'd see everything in no time. But looking back, we actually ran out of time. There were side paths we never explored, and I'd wanted to sit at a cafe and just watch the ocean for a while. For reference, there are two cafes inside Oedo Botania. One is the Venus Garden Cafe around the midpoint, and the other is a cafe called "Oh! Beautiful" near the summit — their shaved ice and Dutch coffee are apparently the signatures. The view is supposedly incredible, but we were too pressed for time to stop in. Next time, I'm definitely sitting down there for sure.

A place I want to come back to

On the boat ride back, I asked my wife, "Want to come again?" The answer came immediately. "Let's come back in spring. When even more flowers are blooming." I was thinking the exact same thing. The fact that 2 hours felt too short means it was that good.

If you've made it all the way to Geoje Island and skip Oedo Botania, honestly, that's a waste. Having to take a boat to get there might seem like a hassle, but once you actually go, that inconvenience is exactly what makes this island feel so special. Because it's not easy to reach, the moment you arrive hits that much harder.

Next time I go, I want to grab a coffee at the cafe and just watch the ocean for a while, explore more side paths, and walk at a more leisurely pace.

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This post was originally published on https://hi-jsb.blog.